If cheese is your thing - and it probably is - then the Spotted Horse in Putney has a treat for you.

The recently refurbished 250-year-old pub boasts some exciting new additions, including a roof-top gin bar, but the baked Camembert at the top of the menu will draw the eye of cheese fiends across London.

Like similar offerings, it's meant for sharing and comes with plenty of bread for dipping, but it's the honey on the bread that really sets this dish apart.

It is not good for your cholesterol.

Indeed, none of the excellent food available will help your waistline, and it was a definite struggle to walk after three courses.

On top of the cheese, I had a juicy and smoky pork belly while my companion tucked into posh bangers and mash, and we rounded off the dinner with a slice of treacle tart and some sticky toffee pudding, which by that stage was an effort to get through but certainly worth it.

Part of the pub's revamp is its new cocktail menu, and we sampled one each - a negroni and an old fashioned. Both were good, but unlikely to set the world on fire.

Drinks in general could be a bit hit and miss. It is a Young's pub, one of the oldest Young's pubs in fact, meaning the selection of beer is fairly limited (a couple of Young's standards and maybe one guest) so if you're a beer snob you may be disappointed.

This baked Camembert was excellent

But if it's a meal you want, you'll be anything but.

The dining area is at the back of the pub, through a slightly dim bar where rumour has it nuclear scientist Klaus Fuchs betrayed the secrets of the atom bomb to a Soviet spy.

At the back, the dining room is brighter than the bar, and slightly more uniform than the eclectic, hipster mix of furniture and plants in the rest of the pub. It reminds one of a smart restaurant, and is definitely going for the gastropub feel, although you can eat in the bar area if you so choose.

They also have a regular quiz night on a Wednesday, and occasional live music, which proved to be an excellent accompaniment to our meal.

Unfortunately, it was a bit too cold to try the gin terrace, but come the summer I will definitely be making a trip back here to give it a go, and to have some more of that Camembert.

The Spotted Horse, Putney

Price: £70-£80 for a three course meal for two, plus wine

Address: 122 Putney High Street, SW15 1RG

Opening hours: 10am-12am Monday-Saturday, 12pm-11pm Sunday (food served 10am-10pm Monday-Saturday and 12pm-9pm Sunday)

Telephone: 0208788 0246

Website: www.spottedhorse.co.uk

Parking: Could be tricky in Putney, but it's only a short walk from Putney Station or East Putney on the District Line.

Dress code: None.

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