Away from the chaos of Oxford Circus at rush hour lies Maddox Street, a charmingly quiet area perfect for a glass of cold wine in the sun.

Good job, then, that on the road lies 28-50 Wine Workshop & Kitchen, offering a sublime range of wines and good food.

Here lies more than 30 traditional wines on top of a "collectors list", offering up an impressive though highly expensive list of wine from private collectors.

Its name relates to the latitudes at which most of the world's vineyards are located, which I thought quaint when it was pointed out to me.

With light colours, the two-floored restaurant, owned by Michelin star Chef Patron Aggi Sverrisson, does well to convey a casual feel without losing its fine dining pedigree.

And wooden wine boxes are displayed up high and add a particularly niche touch as a nod to the craft.

Inside 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen

'A terrific, creamy mustard'

To begin my friend Joe and I started with champagne, the Ridgeview Brut from England, a delicious product with a real zest to it.

For a starter I had the Salmon Gravlax, served on a board with a terrific, creamy mustard and sourdough toast.

Coupled with the strong white, but ever refreshing St Aubin 1er Cru "Les Argilles" wine, it made for a thoroughly pleasant start to the evening.

On to our mains, Joe chose the English Rib Eye steak - offering up tenderly cooked meat, fine béarnaise sauce and the utterly addictive triple cooked chips.

For myself I chose the Cod served with broad beans, morels, lemon potato and spring onion - a perfectly pleasant dish, with delicious fish, though disappointing in size.

In fact I wouldn't say it was that much larger, or filled me up much more, than my Salmon Gravlax starter considering there was an £8 difference between the two.

Salmon Gravlax

'A total knockout'

Indulging in its rich choice of wines, Joe and I drank the London Cru SW6, a red wine brewed in England which, despite my patriotic optimism, didn't quite prompt an urge to try more wines on these shores.

But the Merlot Chateau St Michelle, from Washington, and the Gruner Veltliner (white) from Austria provide stern evidence that another trip here to explore its wine menu even further would be a sound move.

The pick of the wines for me, and it had to beat some exceptional competition, was the Hungarian Disznoko Tokaji from the Sweet and Fortified Wines menu - a total knockout.

This wine was expertly recommended to go with our desserts, for Joe the Cremeux and I the Crumble - with pleasant pastry and ice cream, concluding a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

Crumble

The verdict

If this review were based on wine alone, 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen would comfortable sit with five stars next to its name.

That's not to take anything away from its food, which is excellent but not quite as overwhelmingly good as its main selling point.

getwestlondon gives 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen four stars out of five.