Last time Westminster City Council tried to take on Berwick Street markets, Joanna Lumley got involved and one cheese seller wrote to the Queen.
Street traders have warned it will have another fight on its hands, if it pushes ahead with its proposal to increase charges at some of central London's oldest running street and farmers' markets.
The council says the eight markets in the borough are costing too much to run - with street cleansing, waste management and administration saddling it with losses of up to £300,000 a year.
It is floating the idea to pass on those costs directly to local market traders.
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But that idea has not gone down well on Soho's streets.
Some Berwick traders run family stalls that have sold treats and wares in the key cultural district for generations.
They won a battle to save the market from the council's plans to hand it to a private operator last year.
Westminster backed down after the petition to save Berwick Street was signed by more than 37,000 people, including Stephen Fry and Joanna Lumley.
Flower trader Laecia Stannett has been selling blooms there since she was a little girl helping out on her dad's stall. She runs Ronnie's Flowers with her brother now.
She said she believes the council is trying to "gentrify" the markets, and did not support the charges going up - questioning what services the council would offer in exchange for more fees.
"Really and truly they didn't really want us here, I don't think," she said. "They've been trying to get rid of us for years. They always give you bigger hurdles, but we've stuck it out and we ain't going nowhere."
Berwick Street is one of the capital's oldest surviving markets, believed to have its roots in the 18th century.
It it said to have been the first to sell grapefruit in London, and in Soho's Bohemian heyday, author Virgina Woolf used to buy her nylons there.
Today, it is a largely "foodie" destination, but has "seen better days," Soho Dairy owner Robin Smith said.
It cost him about £25,000 to set up his stall in 2015. He has had to fight to keep his stall selling artisanal cheeses, milk and eggs to high-end restaurants and cafes, and market visitors.
Just months after he set up, the council moved to axe his licence as it readied to transfer the market to a private operator.
In response, Mr Smith and other traders launched the Berwick Street Traders Society, which was ultimately supported by the star-backed petition.
During the battle, Mr Smith said he even wrote to the Queen hoping for records to prove the folklore claiming the markets may have been royally chartered by King James II in the 17th century.
The traders planned to tell the council the city's legislation would require it to provide additional services if it increased costs, Mr Smith said.
But higher charges are just one hurdle the markets face.
Scaffolding backdrops the markets, where local traders say demolitions and the noise of works on luxury retail space developing around their perimeter has drastically affected footfall.
Mr Smith said if the council put up the charges, traders might consider paying up; but only if they were promised it would be invested in better markets.
"To put our charges up here they have to have a load of facilities; like we could do with some hygienic new toilet units, we could do with parking, we could do with loading bays, we could do with storage."
Mr Smith said many traders still depended on markets, choosing to sell on the streets rather than take on Soho's skyrocketing retail rents.
He said Berwick Street should be supported to become a producers' market.
"We serve a square mile of chefs and restaurants. So this could be the best produce street in the world, bar none. We have amazing chefs willing to pay sustainable prices for really good, small volume, quality food produce. That could be Berwick Street."
So, what could change?
The changes could affect Berwick Street, Church Street, Rupert Street, Strutton Ground, Tachbrook Street, Maida Hill Place market, as well as two weekly farmers' markets at Marylebone and Pimlico.
Among the council's proposals, is that local traders could take on more of the costs for cleansing, waste collection, and administration fees through its street market licensing regime, with lower fees paid by local residents and "start up" traders.
Presently, the council charges traders licensing fees of £10.61 daily between Monday to Thursday, £18.16 on Fridays, and £24.40 on Saturdays, which have been unchanged since 2006.
It is not yet known what price-tag the changes could bring.
In unveiling the review, Councillor David Harvey said Westminster's markets had to "continue to hold their own with other markets, on-line retailers and other attractions and provide what local residents want."
"I want to discuss with local residents and traders on each market how we can work together to make sure they continue to thrive and serve their neighbourhoods.”
