WIMBLEDON fortnight is imminent, which means two things - inclement weather conditions and strawberries.

English strawberries, at their best for the next two months, bear no comparison to the tasteless imports found on supermarket shelves throughout the year.

Although traditionally served with pouring cream or clotted cream, there are acceptable modern trends that enhance the flavour of this majestic fruit. A twist of freshly ground black pepper or a few splashes of aged balsamic vinegar can spice things up, but one of my favourite ways is quite unusual.

While touring the Loire valley a few years ago, we stayed in Saumur. The region is famous for its sparkling wine, but there is a little-known red wine, made from the Cabernet Franc grape, which is very fashionable in Paris.

Saumur-Champigny is a fruity, purplish wine, with aromas of crushed strawberries and raspberries, and is best served young and slightly chilled.

We had booked into a small restaurant with rooms, and after a well-prepared dinner I declined the offer of dessert. Unhappy about my decision, 'Madame' inquired if I had tried a regional speciality, strawberries in Champigny. Intrigued, I accepted gratefully.

The strawberries had been macerated overnight in the slightly acidic, fruity local brew, resulting in what can be best described as a sensual soup.

I have never been tempted to try this with any other wine, so as not to spoil the memory of that dish.

Strawberries in Champigny

Ingredients

1kg good, firm strawberries

1 bottle of Saumur-Champigny (drink the rest, chilled, with the strawberries!)

1tbsp soft light brown sugar

Method

Mix the sugar and wine, and pour over the hulled strawberries. Refrigerate overnight, then serve as required.

And a couple of alternatives ...

Strawberries with green peppercorns

1kg good, firm strawberries

100ml Marsala wine

50ml water

1 tbsp caster sugar

1 tsp green peppercorns

1 bay leaf

Place all the ingredients, except the strawberries, in a saucepan. Bring to the boil, then allow to cool and infuse.

Hull and quarter the strawberries and pour the liquid over them. Allow to stand for an hour and then serve as required.

Strawberries in balsamic vinegar 

1kg good, firm strawberries

2tbsp aged balsamic vinegar

1tbsp caster sugar

Mix the balsamic and sugar and pour over the hulled and sliced strawberries. Toss until well coated and allow to stand for one hour.