ONE of the disappointing aspects of the bad weather this year has been the premature end to the game season; the harsh conditions have had a enormous effect on wildlife, notably game birds.

Furred game, however, is a little more resilient, with hare, rabbit and deer being widely available for most of the year.

In the restaurant, we have been serving red deer, from Gloucestershire, which has proved very popular. Described on the menu as 'red deer', rather than venison, is in line with the desire to know more about what we are eating, and where it comes from. This has given rise to the regular question as to the difference between venison and deer. Put simply, venison is the generic term for all deer meat, which includes red, roe and fallow, but also the muntjac, which is increasing in numbers and is now often seen on menus. The word venison is used in much the same way as beef, as the general term for all breeds of cattle prepared for the table.

When one thinks of the majestic stags roaming the forests, a picture of medieval Britain comes to mind. It is from these times that the inspiration for the sauce we serve with red deer is drawn. Chocolate was used in savoury dishes when first brought here, and made an acceptable sauce for game. Of course, the Aztecs used it in this manner long before we did.

My take on this was to make the sauce with a subtle hint of chilli and, in response to a reader's request, here is a recipe for it.

Medallions of red deer with chocolate and chilli sauce

Serves four

Ingredients

* 8 x 200g medallions of venison, or deer of your choice

* 50g chopped shallots

* 125ml red wine

* 1 good sprig of fresh thyme

* 1 bay leaf * 3 crushed peppercorns

* 250ml good veal or beef stock

* 1 tsp arrowroot (optional)

* 50g good quality chocolate

* 1 pinch dried chilli

* 1 fresh red chilli

Method 1) Bring the shallots, wine, herbs and peppercorns to boil in a pan, and reduce by half. Add the stock, and reduce again by half. If it has not reached a syrupy consistency, dilute the arrowroot in a little water, and stir in. Add the dried chilli, reboil and strain into a clean pan. Stir in the chocolate until completely melted, and season.

2) Meanwhile, deseed the fresh chilli and cut into very thin strips. Deep fry in a little hot vegetable oil and drain well on kitchen paper.

3) If the medallions of venison are uneven in thickness, bat them out gently with a meat hammer or rolling pin, until they are even. Season lightly then fry or grill for about 2 minutes on each side.

4) Allow to rest for 5 to 6 minutes, then serve on hot plates, with a little sauce, and garnish with some of the fried chilli.