British ‘tapas’ has long moved on from shrivelled pieces of processed meat and slabs of rubbery cheese and tinned pineapple on a toothpick.

Beautifully sourced and expertly executed treats are the norm in any decent pub now, but finding enticing British morsels in central London is a challenge, especially in the high-end restaurant/drinking hole/Euro cafe-fest that dominates Soho, particularly at the Carnaby end.

Battling past over-perfumed hordes one sticky late summer’s evening brought me to a bar/restaurant by the name of Central & Co, which lies pretty much opposite Liberty in Great Marlborough Street, and where small plates are a major part of the menu – and not just the ubiquitous homemade Scotch eggs and sausage rolls.

Mini salmon fishcakes, glazed baby sausages, summer salad, chicken liver parfait and an egg and bacon salad featured next to a succinct selection of mains, the ingredients of which are all sourced from these islands.

While the food is British, the slick interior has an unmistakably continental feel, beautifully laid out with brass chandeliers apparently salvaged from a Czech art deco hotel and Carrera marble tables and vintage wall lights. It may have been muggy outside but walking inside was akin to stepping into a fridge, and a word with the manager got the air con turned down.

We settled in with a couple of cocktails (£8.50). The Spring Garden Martini with basil, apple and vodka had the aroma of pesto but tasted a good deal more exciting, while the Clover Club of gin, lemon juice, homemade vanilla syrup, egg white and whole raspberries was delicious.

Some background house beats made for a chilled-out atmosphere, while the highly engaging, knowledgeable and friendly waitresses helped us out with food choices.

We decided to share three of the said small dishes (£5-6.50): chicken parfait was very rich and massive in flavour and combined to great effect with a Yorkshire pudding and red onion jam; the fishcakes, which came with a dill, lemon and tartare sauce, were more than passable; and a starter portion of mussels with a creamy cider, sage and leek sauce, which could have done with a little more seasoning but was otherwise excellent.

A main of corn-fed chicken breast with spring veg, baby jacket potatoes and a Lancashire cheese and spring leek sauce (£12) was light and nicely presented, while the fish of the day, a massive plaice, was far too intimidating for my dainty dinner date – more fool her because it was fresh and excellent.

As the light faded outside, so the music ratcheted up, attracting the drinking crowd, and if food coma had not set in I would have gladly sunk some more cocktails in the downstairs, speakeasy-style bar, which features artwork including Jessica Albarn’s hand-painted ostrich egg and a rare canvas from Ben Eine.

Inside Central & Co
Inside Central & Co

- Central & Co is open all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Central & Co

22 Great Marlborough Street, Soho, W1F 7HU

020 7437 4106

www.centralandco.com