After enjoying the last mouthful of a stunning starter of scallops and pork belly, I headed to the lavatory in 86 already feeling rather delighted with life. And then, like a manna from heaven, David Attenborough came into my world, his unmistakable tones wafting into the cubicle through a speaker. It was the most soothing pee I've ever had and was infinitely more pleasant than the nasty elevator music that normally accompanies nature's call in smart restuarants.
It was a simple, yet genius touch from a venue that simply oozes class, and which has a substance to its food that matches the almost outrageously ornate style of its decor.
Opened in 2010, 86 quickly gained favour among west London's high-rollers for its sumptuous cocktails, getting the Royal thumbs-up from the Middleton sisters, no less. Food, served on the second of three floors within a Georgian townhouse, originally seemed to take a back seat, but with chef Simon Levy joining from Koffman's, it has gone up a gear, with classical French cooking constructed with a contemporary overtone.
We were led up the winding staircase to our table, which gave a bird's-eye view of the mixologists strutting their stuff downstairs. The restaurant is dimly lit but glows warmly with the dark gold-hued furnishings and rails and exposed, oversized copper light bulbs. Narcissists can get their fill by looking up at the myriad of mirrors on the ceiling, while the gilded walls are adorned with classic portraits, made a little crazy with the super-imposition of various animal heads.
The restaurant, private dining room, almost has the feel of a private members' club, but the happy jazz music, buzz of conversation from downstairs and friendly staff ensure stuffiness is far from the agenda. I took a friend but could easily have imagined a wooing a woman or putting the world to rights with the old man.
After a venison pasty amuse-bouche came the scallop starter, which was finished with a decoration of squid ink and butternut squash puree. It was a painting on a plate, and tasted better. The soft creamy and pure scallops got a rustic kick from the soupçon of pork belly, and the duo were pleasantly sweetened with the puree and ink. Friend said the mac and cheese with snails, bacon and garlic croutons, served in a ramekin on an 86-branded wooden board, was earthy, rich, filling and fantastic.
I continued with fish and decided on the sea bass on a bed of razor clams with squid, embedded on a long seafood shell. Again it was perfectly put together, clean, light and leaving me with enough room for pudding.
Fillet of beef with pan-seared foie gras, truffle and spinach was the height of decadence, and, aside from being ever so slightly under-seasoned, was a marriage made to stand the test of time.
The 2007 Burgundy, a Marsannay Louis Latour, was light enough to go with the fish and went well with the steak, too, although the pouring from the waiter was a little over-zealous for my liking.
The lemon curd shortbread with meringue was good but the real star of the plate was the accompanying homemade ice cream, which tasted like an icy Earl Grey tea. The beverage theme continued with my friend's espresso brulee, another flawless representation of one of France's classic dishes.
This was a truly memorable meal and made one wonder why Levy wasn't poached earlier. It won't be long before the Middleton sisters are waxing lyrical about the food, as well as the cocktails.
A three-course meal for two with wine comes to about £120. Call 0207 052 9620 to book.
