AFEW weeks ago I reviewed a restaurant called Goodman, which served up the best steak I have ever had in London. And just as that restaurant was a haven for meateaters, Loch Fyne is the place to go for fresh fish.

Apart from a nasty experience with an oyster when I was little, when my father told me they were still alive just as I popped it into my mouth, I am generally a huge fan of seafood.

So I was expecting good things from Loch Fyne, and I was not disappointed.

I started the meal with the classic smoked salmon, which came with a slice of lemon and rocket.

The portion was of a generous size for the £6 price tag,and was delicious.

My father chose for his starter the Scottish herring (also £6), which came in four marinades, with crème fraîche and pickled cucumber.

Eyeing his dish up from across the table, I tried some herring, which was as thick and salty as it should be.

For the main course I picked the sea bass fillet with scallops and braised fennel (£15), together with a side order of chunky chips (£2.50).

The fish had been steamed and came away effortlessly from the skin.

The fennel brought an unusual, yet complementary flavour to the plate.

My father went for the special of the day - a whole sea bream which came with a tasty leek sauce, and also went for chips on the side.

With whole fish, the only down side is having to dodge the bones, but it was certainly worth it.

The other special of the evening was haddock with chips and mushy peas, which looked very tempting when visitors on the neighbouring table began tucking in.

Our meal was washed down with a bottle of Sauvignon blanc, a perfect accompaniment.

For desserts, we both picked the crème brûlée.

The topping was crisp and crunchy as it should be, while the rest was smooth and creamy with a hint of vanilla.

I would definitely return to Loch Fyne to try the vast array of fish on offer.

Next time, I've got my eye on one of the enormous shellfish platters which are designed to be shared between two people.

Loch Fyne 2-4 Catherine Street Covent Garden

WC2B 5JS 020 7240 4999