When Joseph Antippa and Tyler Martin decided they wanted to open a restaurant they went about it the hard way. No big loans from the banks or third party investors just their own hard cash and the desire to offer great food and wine in a relaxed environment at cracking prices.
That dream of operating and running a neighbourhood brasserie became a reality last month when Manuka Kitchen opened its doors to customers on the bustling Fulham Road, just a few hundred metres walk from the Broadway Tube station.
There is a strong hint in the name of the restaurant that there is a Kiwi influence in its creation and that comes in the form of chef Tyler, who hails from New Plymouth. on New Zealand's North Island. Bees gather nectar from the flowers of the Manuka bush, which is indigenous to New Zealand, and that goes to make the unique and highly popular Manuka honey.
It's not been an easy ride for Tyler and business partner Joseph, the charming and hospitable front of house part of the team and who originates from Lebanon, to get the compact restaurant open for business. They have done virtually everything themselves, as some unfinished painting and decorating testifies, including sourcing the reclaimed and retro tables and industrial light fittings.
But that's part of the beauty of this place. There are no crisp white tablecloths or fancy design statements, it's been put together on a tight budget. The compact eating area, which can comfortably accommodate about 20 people, is about as minimalistic as it gets. A large clock and mirror and two blackboards adorn the newly painted white walls and the only splash of real colour is a comfortable burgundy banquette running down one side.
The focal point is the open kitchen where Tyler and his assistant can be seen turning out some splendid food, matched by a small well chosen affordable wine list.
Some scrummy homemade bread with delicious Duchy butter got things off to a good start and it got even better with tasters of delicious dandelion pesto and goats cheese crustini (sic).
My starter of three good sized veal balls, a snip at (£4), served with a vibrant tangy tomato sauce, were tasty, perfectly seasoned and a sprinkling of parmassan on top added extra bite and flavour to a stunningly simple and faultless dish.
Fiona described her lightly battered crispy squid (£6) as 'just perfect' with the spicy nam jim dipping sauce and a well dressed cucumber garnish adding to the taste explosion. She eagerly tucked into her main of an attractive looking plate of rabbit, venison sausage and a well constructed light thyme and cream sauce with perfectly cooked rigatoni (pasta) (£10).
The great flavours came together like a match made in heaven with the robust earthy tasting sausages and tender rabbit blending together perfectly for some exceptional flavours – all for a tenner.
My main of well cooked fresh shiny cod, the skin could have been a bit crispier, was complimented by the sweetness of seasonal butternut squash and carrots (described simply as orange vegetables), while a samphire aioli added interest and tender broccoli added to a well balanced and colourful plate of food (£13).
Joseph's recommendation of the Manuka honey and saffron brulee (£5) turned out to be a great pud with the rich and intense flavour of the honey and saffron flavouring adding an interesting taste to the traditional brulee recipe.
Fiona was enticed by a Raspberry Lamington (£2.50) – a traditional Australian treat of small sponge cakes coated in chocolate and grated coconut. It was a sweet nostalgic bomb of a desert and a joy when soaked up with some lovely vibrant raspberry coulée.
In a recent review I read a new restaurant was described as 'overpriced and out of ideas' well, I would describe Manuka as the opposite – 'underpriced and full of ideas'. It's refreshing to see a 'normal' restaurant open with no frills or gimmicks that just wants to deliver good food at decent prices, especially for this area of west London. It was quiet on the night I visited, but it's worth going beyond peering through the window of Manuka and stepping inside to sample some well cooked and varied food.
Manuka is also open for brunch and lunch.
