Never let it be said that us humble hacks are an entirely heartless species. Take me for example.
This week I found a hirtherto hidden seam of kindness so deep it almost knocked me off my pedestal.
After all, what greater act of charity could there be than taking an embattled banker to dinner at Goodman , the Moscovite steak house which has just imported its leather-seated comfort to Mayfair?
Right now bankers are even more hated than journalists and few tears have been shed for the humbled 'Masters of the Universe'.
But this particular denizen of The City, let's call him 'Juan', is a friend of mine and he is slumping into depression faster than the British economy.
Times are so hard, he informed me, that he hadnÕt dined out on his favourite steak for several weeks.
I couldn't allow this terrible situation to persist and thought a good chow down at Goodman would, for a blessed moment, take his mind of his ever-diminishing bonus.
And it did the second Luigi - the ever-attentive Maitre de - showed-off a selection of plate-sized cuts.
Our inner cavemen roared to life at the sight of the thick, bloody slabs of cow. Standouts were the 110-day grain-fed Australian beef, the fat 'marbling' it delightfully; the 120-day grain-fed American prime cut; and the monster British rib-eye, weighing in at a massive 800g.
Goodman ages its steaks for up to 35 days, a process during which the juices are absorbed into the meat, tenderising it, and punters are allowed to visit the hanging room next to the kitchen to see their beef before it reaches the plate.
I opted for the American rib-eye and a fine choice it was too. Cooked to a perfect medium rare and served with not-too-heavy bearnaise sauce - although pepper, mustard and Goodman special sauce are also available - it was 400g of meaty, succulent heart-stopping joy.
Juan's Australian number was nearly as good, but the extra 10 days of corn feeding had clearly given that little extra tenderness to my hunk of cow.
Goodman has a specially-imported charcoal-fired grill to cook the cuts, and it hasn't been allowed to go out for the three weeks since the restaurant opened.
Not very eco-friendly, but for carnivores the result is well worth it.
The menu has a full range of starters (£5.50 -7.50) meats and fish, and a lunchtime menu offering a £12 burger with no extra charge for any topping, including bacon and egg.
But Goodman's crust is certainly earned by the steaks. Knocking back glasses of potent Chilean red and appreciating the mahogany walls, I got Goodman's efforts at retro chic.
The place looks like a film set and nods to the American steak houses you have seen in countless 70s films. All very cool, and with a bit of luck during these penny-watching times, it'll flourish.
A nice touch was that (nearly) all of the steaks are priced at £25, giving customers the chance to eat what they want (relatively) affordably.
Sides - the creamed garlic spinach was the best - are extra, but Juan assured me that Goodman offers better value than the other upmarket steak eateries nearby; Gaucho or the Maze Grill, not that he'll be eating at them anytime soon.
Goodman 26 Maddox Street, London, W1S 1QH
Tel: 020 7499 3776 www.goodmanrestaurants.com
