ACCEPTED wisdom states that the average student has a culinary repertoire that stretches no further than beans on toast and pot noodles, and that today's teenagers are too busy mugging grannies to learn about basic manners or the rudimentaries of social interaction.

So it comes as something of a surprise to discover, tucked away in the bunker-like Barons Court campus of Ealing, Hammersmith and West London College, a fine dining, silver service restaurant staffed entirely by students, almost all of whom have yet to turn 18.

Diners seeking out the Taste restaurant will first have to clear the front desk of the college, which can feel a little like going through airport security.

But such a minor inconvenience is worth it for the experience that awaits once you have successfully negotiated the campus's bustling forecourt, a place that at lunchtime is overwhelmed by youthful vigour and likely to make even the trendiest of middle-aged diners feel their years.

Once through the door, things perk up immeasurably, as students from every section of the hospitality industry put their skills into practice, thereby shattering any preconceptions about the general hostility of youth.

Diners are greeted warmly, have their reservation checked against the diary, and are guided to their table by charming waiting staff who quickly reappear with glasses of iced water.

A wine list is produced - the restaurant has a fully stocked bar - and menus are presented, at which point one of the key attractions of the restaurant becomes clear.

A three course meal here costs just £7.95.

Starters include gastro pub-style classics like warm chicken liver salad with raspberry vinaigrette and deep fried breaded brie with red onion chutney.

I chose a Tuscan vegetable salad made of thin shards of raw onion and cucumber, dressed in a pleasantly sharp basil oil and served with croutons.

Main dishes range from straightforward to ambitious, with vegetarian cannelloni at one extreme and skate wing with prosciutto ham, radicchio, capers and lemon at the other.

The most irresistible item on our visit was the chicken a la Kiev, a classic dish that was well executed to give a perfectly moist chicken breast, with crisp breadcrumbs on the outside and garlic butter oozing from the centre.

Served with broccoli and a sculpted mound of red pepper rice pilaff, it was very satisfying and betrayed none of the relative inexperience of its creators.

In fantastically 1970s fashion, a dessert trolley is then brought round so diners can choose from one of three options - profiteroles proved to be a good choice, with well-made choux pastry and sticky chocolate sauce.

The restaurant's menu changes every term as a new round of students dons kitchen aprons and waiting uniforms, and constantly evolving daily specials keep the young staff on their toes and dedicated customers coming back for more.

With prices a fraction of those in upmarket restaurants nearby, and with a comparable quality of food, presentation and atmosphere, it's a wonder more people haven't yet discovered the joys of modern student cuisine.

EALING, HAMMERSMITH & WEST LONDON COLLEGE,

Gliddon Road, Hammersmith, 020 8741 1688