Return a tired old boozer in a smart area of South Kensington to its former glories, add a cosy and intimate dining room above and then turn the humble potato into probably the best chips I have ever tasted and in my mind you have a fighting chance of making a go of a new venture.

That’s what Luke Mackay, the foodie behind the business, and David Turcan, now a lifelong friend since they met at university 20 years ago, have done with The Hour Glass which re-opened a few weeks back in Brompton Road. The duo are also the successful team behind deli and food shop Brompton Food Market, which is just round the corner.

More about those show stopping chips later because while this pub is very serious about its food with a seasonal menu full of interest it is also serious about being a proper pub, with a number of fine draft options and guest ales from London brewers available.

The pub element with its impressive bar is smart and enticing with a number of original features having been uncovered and showcased while step upstairs and you discover a welcoming compact dining room.

One end features a striking turquoise banquette with distressed mirror above while at the other is a small open pass kitchen where Luke and chef Tim Parsons work their magic. Light floods in through a number of windows which look out over the street, and there is wood panelling on the walls to admire, traditional wooden flooring, tables and old church chairs along with a variety of attractive hand-picked light fittings in the airy space.

For my lunch visit on a stunning late autumn day, I kicked off with a wonderfully earthy starter of well-cooked wood pigeon (£7.50) which sat on a sublime piece of black pudding and the dish was further complimented by pickled quince and toasted hazelnuts.

Fiona was more than happy with her delicate, slightly sweet and flavourful potted rabbit and bacon butter (£7.50), attractively served with toast and gherkins.

She followed with breast of lamb (£14) which was moist and tender, packed great flavour and had subtle hints of rosemary coming through. The plate of food was lifted by a delicious anchovy inspired salsa verde which packed real flavour and potch (a smooth swede and potato mash).

And so back to those chips, which are lovingly cooked three times the last in dripping, and delivered fantastic crunch and taste. Add a faultlessly cooked medium rare lean flatiron steak with a warming smoky scent, bone marrow gravy and watercress (£18) and I marvelled at the simplicity of a dish perfectly executed - and those chips were just a joy to eat. Needless to say very few of them found their way onto Fiona’s plate, they were all mine.

I just about found room to indulge in pud, although when a stonking piece of chocolate and porter cake (£6) arrived I realised it was going to be something of a battle. Luckily the cake was light and moist and while some Cornflake ice cream and crunchy honeycomb balanced it out, it was not a dessert that entirely blew me away.

There is plenty to admire about the appearance and feel of The Hour Glass and its tasty well delivered food from the attentive and cheery team and it is also pleasing to see a new lease of life being breathed into this neighbourhood pub in the heart of South Kensington.

The Hour Glass , 279-283 Brompton Road, South Kensington , SW3 2DY - 020 7581 2497