SAMPHIRE is an ingredient that features on the menu at Friends from time to time. It is sometimes referred to as sea asparagus, because when inspected closely, although not related, it resembles miniature asparagus spears.

Although it grows by the sea, it is not seaweed but a member of the beet family.

Marsh samphire, to give it its proper name, is found in estuaries and on salt marshes all around Britain. East Anglia in particular is a good source.

Its young green shoots are at their best from spring to late summer, after which it tends to become 'woody'.

It is generally used for fish dishes because of its sea water salty taste and has been described, when lightly blanched, as a being like a salty sea breeze.

It goes well with most fish, especially salmon, cod and sea bass.

Samphire should be available from your fishmonger, and is usually found in markets nearer the sea, such as King's Lynn in Norfolk, where it's as cheap as chips!

Fillet of sea bass with marsh samphire and butter sauce

Ingredients

(serves 4)

2 chopped shallots 

150ml dry white wine 

50ml double cream 

100g unsalted butter, cut into small dice 

100g samphire 

4 fillets of sea bass (approx. 150g each), descaled and pin bones removed 

A little oil

Method 1) Put the shallots and wine in a pan and reduce by half. Add the cream, bring to the boil and then whisk in the butter, and strain into a clean pan. Season to taste.

2) Blanch the samphire in boiling water for one minute, drain and place in the centre of warmed serving plates.

3) Lightly season the fish and sear in hot oil, skin side down, for about three minutes. Turn them over, and cook for a further three minutes.

4) Place the fillets on top of the samphire and surround with the butter sauce.

TIPS Very little salt is needed, because of the flavour of the samphire. An un-oaked Chardonnay is best with this.