I HAVE many strange and happy memories of my early career, one of which I remember as 'The mystery of the short-trousered chef' (Hercule Poirot would have been proud of me).

I was a commis-chef at The Connaught Hotel (pictured), working under the chef saucier Monsieur Delorme, who was a real character, and 65 years old then. He always arrived in the kitchen with his trousers rolled half way up his shins.

In those days you had too much respect to make any comment, but one day curiosity got the better of me. I summoned the courage to go and ask him.

"Young man," he responded, "at the end of service, you will have your answer."

So I waited until it was time to go home. Then I studied M Delorme's trousers once more.

Sure enough, the exertions of the kitchen had had the same effect that building work seems to have on builders. That is, his waistband had slipped down several inches. The result was that his turn-ups now broke neatly over his shoes.

A loveable eccentric.

Nothing eccentric, though, about the following recipe, a Canard aux olives

Serves 4

* One 2kg duck prepared for roasting

I litre chicken stock

1 tbsp arrowroot

20 black olives, stoned and quartered

half bottle dry white wine

Preheat the oven to 200ºC/gas mark 6, then roast the duck for 30 minutes on each leg.

Turn the duck on to its back and roast for a further 20 minutes. Remove and keep warm.

Strain off the fat and reserve for roasting the potatoes.

Add the stock and wine to the pan, stirring to release the sediments.

Strain into a clean pan and reduce by half.

Dilute the arrowroot and stir into the stock until it thickens. Add the olives and reboil.

Season to taste.

Pour the sauce over the carved duck and serve with roast potatoes.