When a chef who in the past has served up some of the best tasting authentic Indian dishes you have enjoyed invites you to come and try some of his new creations on the menu it's an offer too good to refuse.

The man in question is Jay Gosh, part owner and the magician in the kitchen of Potli, a relaxed restaurant in Hammersmith's King Street, towards the Chiswick end, which has become increasingly popular in a real foodie strip since it opened its doors more than three years ago.

Never content to rest on his laurels Jay is all about conjuring up fantastic tasting new dishes to match the various seasons and he has added a collection of these to his winter and Christmas menu. On my recent visit I was keen to try some of them out and see whether the chef still had the magic touch with his spices and sauces. The new dishes are traditional and regional, showcase cooking on the bone and some interesting vegetarian additions.

Jay Ghosh is a chef who knows a thing or two about making a decent vindaloo
Jay Ghosh is a chef who knows a thing or two about making a decent vindaloo

As I sat back on the comfy vivid pea purée coloured banquette showered with cushions and took in the relaxed surroundings that Potli is all about the first of three starters we shared arrived, Shammi Kebab (£8.50), which comprised of finely minced English lamb mixed with lashings of cinnamon and mace were melt in the mouth soft patties that left a lovely warm tingle in the mouth.

Delicately cooked chilli garlic squid in a light crunchy batter, part of the Christmas menu, were a tasty example of typical indo-Chinese street food and came with a well balanced dipping sauce with a bit of fire to it.

The real star of the starters in terms of taste and presentation was Bharwan Shimla Mirch (£6.75) - a whole spiced red pepper perfectly cooked in the tandoor and stuffed with a delicious earthy filling of onions, potatoes, mushrooms, sultanas and paneer which all worked well together for a moreish dish.

A main of Railway Mutton Curry (£9.50) was an authentic Anglo Indian dish from the days of the Raj and evoked memories of the type of wholesome food served to the workmen building the original railway network in India where there were few cooking facilities and they resorted to one pot cooking.

Potli is at 319-321 King Street, Hammersmith W6 9NH
Potli is at 319-321 King Street, Hammersmith W6 9NH
 

Cooked on the bone the meat, served with potatoes, was moist, tender and flavoursome and simply fell off the bone. It sat perfectly with a rich slightly spiced tomato and peppery based sauce to leave the taste buds dancing with delight at a simple but perfectly executed dish.

Our other mains Mirchi ka Salan (£8.50) was quite simply a revelation. From the Hyderabad region the traditional dish of banana peppers cooked in a traditional sesame, coconut, peanut and yoghurt gravy and flavoured with curry leaves might not look that inviting but it packed a stunning punch. The sweetness and flavour of the mild peppers shone through in the dish and the subtle sauce was delicious, and both Fiona and I agreed probably the best vegetarian Indian dish we have tasted.

The dishes were accompanied by some lemon rice (£3.75) and mixed breads which were perfect for mopping up the delicious sauces, which have become a trademark of Jay's cooking.

We finished off a grand evening with a desert Shahi Tukra – literally meaning a rich morsel - and the Indian equivalent to a posh bread and butter pudding. It was a delightful plate to share of sweet syrupy coated deep fried bread soaking up an addictive reduced milk based sauce and garnished with chopped nuts.

Potli 319-321 King Street, Hammersmith W6 9NH
Potli 319-321 King Street, Hammersmith W6 9NH

One thing I admire about Jay's cooking is his ability to produce a cacophony of different flavours and spices with his dishes. This shone through again with his new creations which duly delivered wonderful taste explosions in the mouth.