I am a great fan of Beaujolais, both the region and the wines.

Although there is a white and rose produced, my favourites are the ten different crus, Brouilly, Régnié, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Saint-Amour, Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon, and Moulin-à-Vent.

I am not a great fan of Beaujolais nouveau – the 2013 vintage was released last Thursday – although I don’t denounce it to the same extremes that some experts do.

Back in the 1980s we had the Beaujolais Run, a race to get the first of the new vintage to our tables, but the health and safety police put paid to that as there were casualties as a result of the over exuberance of those keen to be first back.

Beaujolais breakfasts were quite common, especially in the city, where special licences were still required for the occasion.

Beaujolais nouveau is a purple/pink colour, reflecting it’s age, and is intended for immediate drinking. While some nouveau can be kept for a few years, there is no real reason to as it doesn’t improve with age.

I of course, prefer to cook with it and drink some Brouilly or Fleurie with it!

Here is a simplified version of this dish:

Coq au Beaujolais

(Serves 4)

Ingredients

1 chicken (about 1½ kilo) cut into small joints

25g plain flour

75g peeled button onions

100g button onions

50g grams of bacon lardons

25g unsalted butter

1 bottle of Beaujolais nouveau

1 large sprig of thyme

1 bay leaf

Method

1) Season the chicken pieces well with salt and pepper.

2) Heat the butter in heavy bottomed pan; lightly brown the chicken on all sides.

3) Add the lardons, onions, and mushrooms, and cook for a few minutes.

4) Add flour and mix carefully to absorb the fat and juices.

5) Add the wine gradually, until completely covered.

6) Add the herbs, cover and simmer 35 minutes.

7) Transfer the chicken to a warm serving dish, then reduce the cooking liquor by half, or until it is slightly thickened.

8) Check the seasoning, add a little water if too thick, pour over the chicken and serve at once.