FOUNDED by a multi-millionaire Indian vitamin tsar, the Indali Lounge offers an almost unheard concept in Britain - a healthy curry. With dishes such as 'no butter butter chicken', the menu is packed full of food cooked without the gee or cream typical of British South Asian cuisine.

So, while obviously good news for lentil-munching health freaks, what about the rest of us?

First, the positives. Dr Karter Lalvani, 77, of Wellwoman vitamin fame, has created a contemporary restaurant with excellent staff, decor and toilets.

Equally, cooking without excess fat has left a menu with clean, clear flavours and none of the cloying after-taste that follows a cheeky vindaloo down Brick Lane.

The naans were crisp, the rice was tender and the fish curries, in particular, were well spiced.

OK, so the portions were small - but what else would you expect from a healthy restaurant?

Importantly, most of the time you would have no idea that you were in a low fat eatery.

Which, in my book is a good thing. It made it possible to enjoy Indian food without guilt, but also without literally ramming the concept down your throat.

However, although Indali succeeds in creating good diverse food, there is a problem.

Sometimes, you just don't get what you ask for.

The no butter butter chicken, unsurprisingly, didn't taste of butter chicken.

It was too tomatoey and, although perfectly nice, wasn't exactly what you would expect.

For some, or perhaps most people, this won't be a problem.

Indali is a great restaurant with an excellent chef.

But I can't help but think that half the fun of eating a curry is revelling in the coronary-inducing naughtiness of it all.