Hidden away in the backstreets off Chiswick High Road is a restaurant that has been on the map of this popular area for foodies for more than eight years although somehow Sam's Brasseries and Bar had never previously appeared on my radar of places to visit and it was now time to put that right.
Lamenting the end of summer and on a damp uninviting September evening the brasseries was a welcome refuge from the inclement weather. I was also keen to discover what lay within and why in the face of strict competition from a wide range of other eateries in the High Street area Sam's appears to have remained a firm favourite with the locals.
The Brasserie is run by Sam Harrison and co-owned with him by restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas and celebrity chef Rick Stein. It is housed in narrow Barley Mow Passage in what was once the Sanderson wallpaper factory, design elements of which have been retained making for an impressive interior building for a restaurant and bar.
On the midweek evening I visited there was already a real buzz about the place and it was only just after 7pm. On entering your eye is immediately taken by the stylish New York style bar area with its zink-topped bar, high stools, seating in bold colours and comfortable leather banquettes illuminated by funky eye catching lighting.
We moved straight to the airy dining area with its high ceiling and a combination of well spaced wooden tables with a mixture of comfortable bench seats, chairs and multi-coloured leather banquettes, well positioned soft lighting and a focal point glass fronted kitchen.
The menu is interesting and well constructed with a sensible number of choices (nine starts and nine mains) and competitive in terms of price. The overall relaxed atmosphere in the busy restaurant was enhanced by the cheerful and capable staff as they bustled around serving hungry diners with a minimum of fuss.
Both our starters were star turns. My imaginatively presented flavoursome Coln Valley smoked salmon (£8.50) came served with a delicious and well dressed oriental salad and a dollop of big hitting wasabi and ginger, making for an exciting taste explosion from the well matched ingredients.
'It's all about the squid instead of the batter' declared Fiona as she tucked into her perfectly cooked Cajun spiced deep fried squid, dusted in a lovely light batter and served on an attractive wooden board with a delicious lemon mayonnaise (£7.50). A very satisfying start to the evening from two simple yet delicious starters.
My mains of thick gleaming flaky roast line caught Atlantic cod (£16) was well cooked, though the skin was not as crispy as I would have liked, while a chervil pesto added texture and a tasty dimension to the dish. However, the clams were disappointingly slightly overcooked and a bed of buttered leeks, though well cooked, added little to a dish I would describe as 'quite acceptable'
Fiona's pork rib eye (£14) was tender and succulent in taste and came served with well matched rainbow chard and a scrumptious Middle Eastern style buttermilk tahini sauce, which complimented the meat perfectly. A shared side of perfectly cooked French beans and shallots (£3.50) went down well.
The cherry and lemon posset with marshmallows (£6.50) was a dessert too tempting to resist and what a great pud it was. Topped with sweet juicy fresh cherries and marshmallows the pure indulgence then came with each mouthful of creamy tangy lemon and hints of cherry jelly – I really did not want it to end. Fiona rounded off her evening with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and raspberry sorbet (£6) to refresh the pallet.
Sam's is exactly what you expect from a brasserie – it serves quality food from breakfast to dinner in relaxed abnd stylish surroundings and it is worth seeking out this 'hidden' gem if you have not stumbled across it before.
Sam's Brasserie and Bar is at 11 Barley Mow Passage, London W4 4PH. Telephone 020 8987 0555
