A bumpkin: 'An awkward, simple rustic; yokel'. An entirely unflattering description for a human being, you'll agree, but, aside from the 'awkward' and the 'yokel', restaurants get lauded for having something of the 'bumpkin' about them.

The owners of an eatery in Old Brompton Road were so enamoured with the concept that they named their restaurant after the word.

And while Bumpkin is in no way awkward, I am pleased to report its food is rustic simplicity personified, and seriously tasty.

Diners are promised 'quirky, country-style' surroundings, and while the restaurant is situated next to a petrol station on a busy road, I did forget I was in London once inside. Indeed, there was probably no need for the waiting staff to have the word 'country' emblazoned on the back of their t-shirts as if to re-emphasise the ethos.

A large bar at the front, from which draught lager is available, adds to the informality and multiplies the feeling that Bumpkin is more of a gastro-pub than a fully-fledged restaurant, although that is not to detract from the experience in the slightest, esecially when the prices are so reasonable.

I started with the Sussex chicken and a pea, mint and watercress salad.

It was wonderfully, zingy and summery, the peas adding a firmness to the soft and tender chicken. On a muggy night, it was the perfect choice.

You would have thought the main, pork belly, would have contradicted the rationale behind my choice of starter completely, but a traditionally heavy and wintry dish was surprisingly dainty.

The crackling was thin yet crispy, while the meat to fat ratio, so often outweighed by the fat on this particular cut of pork, was excellent.

The French beans, soft new potatoes, and refreshing home-made apple sauce made this a more than palatable summer offering.

My companion plumped for the white onion soup, and he was convinced the chef had used veal stock, a major plus apparently.

He then went seriously into winter territory with one of Bumpkin's signature pies, this one filled with free-range chicken, leeks, bacon, cream and tarragon.

I stole some and it was unbelievably tasty, superb in fact. The nutmeggy carrot mash was an inspired choice of side.

We Brits do puddings as well as anyone, I reckon, so I couldn't turn down the opportunity to have a bit of trifle which, having had two glasses of Rioja already, possibly took me over my limit.

Friend's crumble was crunchy and delicious.

For about £35 per head for three courses, this was a really excellent meal in a place which brings a little bit of the country to the middle of London.

All hail the Bumpkin.

Bumpkin

102 Old Brompton Road

0207 341 0802