One of the few areas of London not hit by gastro fever has been in the heart of Theatreland near Covent Garden, with the majority of pubs rather seemingly serving 1980s food to tourists.
But the discerning theatre-goer now has a slightly more upmarket option in the shape of the historic Angel and Crown, which has nailed its colours firmly to the gastro mast.
The venue, which has stood at St Martin's Lane since 1727, has been taken over and refurbished by the Martin Brothers, who have a sting of smart pubs across London, including The Gun and The Cadogan Arms in Chelsea.
A country feel now resonates in the upstairs dining room, with fine prints on the wall, classy wooden furniture and a welcoming fireplace. The rustic feel continues in the bar, with snacks like pheasant sandwiches with parsnip crisps, black pudding Scotch eggs and bone marrow served all day to compliment an extensive list of real ales.
We decided to have dinner upstairs and were sat by the window, overlooking the throngs pounding down St Martin's Lane. After our smartly dressed waitress brought us some freshly baked bread and butter, we got stuck into the starters.
Potted Dorset crab, sourced, as with all the fish, from Billingsgate Market, was sorely tempting, but I fancied some meat and the salt beef croquettes looked good. Despite the name, they were slightly under seasoned.
My friend's ham hock and cornichon terrine with piccalilli was a gloriously meaty, tangy number, presented well and definitely winning the battle of the entrees.
The real triumph of the night, though, was my companion's oxtail and bone marrow pie, which was just about as warming and lavishly rich a pie as can be. The marrow thickened into the gravy, making it a meaty, gooey, sumptuous delight, while the oxtail fell off the bone and evoked memories of childhood.
At £13, the Dexter beef burger isn't cheap but it's a good one, thick and juicy with a good bun, generous toppings and decent chips. On balance, though, I erred in not choosing the pie.
We dine out seriously at the Chronicle, so skipping pudding wasn't an option. I find banoffee pies struggle to avoid being quite nauseating, but this one wasn't too big and cream-heavy and didn't leave me feeling like I was going to burst. It helped that we shared it.
For those in more of a rush, a set two-course pre-theatre menu is available, while the kitchen is open until 11pm for those wanting an after-show bite.
The Angel and Crown is a long overdue addition to the area and its commitment to local suppliers and artisan produce makes for a serious gastro. And, with time, it will only improve.
www.theangelandcrown.com
0207 748 5244
