What makes a perfect restaurant?
I don't know about you, discerning gastronauts, but I reckon somewhere that serves food cooked by a Ramsay-trained chef at foodie-pub prices in an informal, welcoming atmosphere is a good start.
But they don't exist, I hear you say, especially in south-west London. All the independent, quality restaurants charge a fortune, you argue.
Ah, well I have news that may surprise you – you're wrong. Amble up the Fulham Road from the town centre towards Parsons Green and after about five minutes you'll come across a place on your right called Manson.
Doesn't sound much like a restaurant, granted, but it is and, in short, it's a bloody good one.
The place was opened earlier this year by long-time Fulham restaurateur and pub owner Eamonn Manson, who started in SW6 16 years ago with The Pen in Parson's Green.
Opening any new eatery must be a hell of a task in these financial waters, but Manson has struck the perfect balance of pricing well without compromising quality.
It helps that he found inspiration when choosing his chef, Gemma Tuley, a Ramsey protege at Claridges in Paris.
Her food is sumptuous, and what a pleasure it is to eat it not in some stuffy, hushed, clinical atmosphere but rather in a jovial, warm and friendly space which has all the rustic charm of a good gastro but without the samey fare.
We started with a cocktail and were led to our table where we had olives and breads waiting, a nice touch.
I liked the staff here immediately – they're all young, but very polite, attentive and knowledgeable and I got the impression they could adapt their manner depending on the customer – nothing worse than an automaton.
I started with the leak and potato soup, unadventurous, you may say, when I could have had oysters or scallops, but my Welsh companion persuaded me and her recommendation didn't disappoint. She had a taste and seemed crestfallen to admit her version doesn't come close.
She went for Bayonne ham and a fig chutney, again simple, but the quality of the ingredients shone through.
Sorely tempted by the fish pie to share, I couldn't quite persuade my companion of its merits, so went for the sliced lamb fillet, which, intriguingly, was coated with an anchovy butter, the saltiness of which oozed into the perfectly pink, tender meat and, served with vine tomatoes, greens and thick chips, worked well, especially with the deep Bordeaux we were by now glugging rather too easily.
She went for duck which came with potato dauphinoise, again perfectly done, the potatoes gooey and rich but not sickly.
Pudding, which we shared, was served in a wide glass, the crumble on top of my lovely, sharp apples, nutty and, for a change, actually crumbly.
This was a superb meal and, with the restaurant full, was proof that outstanding neighbourhood dining can continue to thrive with the right balance, even in a recession.
Manson
676 Fulham Road
0207 384 9559
