THE first branch of Tuk Cho opened in Ealing Broadway last December. With the introduction of a new menu last month, and plans for expansion, I decided it was time to check out this popular local eatery.
With its relaxed atmosphere, menu layout and open kitchen, it is easy to draw comparisons with Japanese chain Wagamama, but Tuk Cho, offering ‘Asian market eating’, serves dishes “inspired by the foodstalls of Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Japan, the Philippines and Indonesia.”
My companion for the evening, Sarah, had travelled extensively throughout the region and several items on the menu caught her eye before we had even sat down.
As per the street market custom, food is freshly prepared to order and our starters and mains both arrived within five minutes. If you eat as slowly as I do, I would recommend ordering just a starter at first so your main does not go cold.
I began with chicken goi cuon (£4), or summer rolls, which came with a spicy dipping sauce. I found them rather bland. “They’re meant to be like that,” said Sarah. However, I could not fault their freshness.
We shared the muc chien (£5.40), Vietnam’s take on crispy calamari. The menu said they were ‘hard not to demolish in seconds’ and the juicy pieces of squid in a deliciously seasoned batter, mixed with fresh chilli, spring onions and lime were never going to last long.
For my main course, I had chicken katsu (£9.10), a Japanese dish of breaded chicken with curry sauce, which was superb. The sauce was spicy, mild and sweet and a perfect complement to the succulent slices of chicken. I was, however, left slightly confused by the accompanying salad garnish. Delicious as it was with its shards of pickled ginger, it was an odd thing to serve with curry.
Sarah’s repeated observations of ‘this is really yummy’ obliged me to have a taste of her daging rendang (£9.20), a Malaysian beef curry, and I could only agree. The beef was very tender, with a surprisingly salty but delicious sauce subtly flavoured with star anise, cardamom and tamarind.
Asian cuisine is not famed for its puddings and it appears the team at Tuk Cho has realised this. Alongside the banana fritters and sweet sticky rice, I was secretly pleased to see some distinctly non-Asian desserts on the menu, including a chocolate brownie and cheesecake.
I opted for a scoop each of star anise and stem ginger ice-cream (£3.50), out of curiosity more than anything else, and was not disappointed. Subtle, creamy and refreshing, it was the perfect way to round off the meal.
Sarah was slightly bolder and ordered a night train (£5.50) – a cold espresso Martini with an odd-sounding combination of vodka, kahlua and red chilli. But it worked, with the chilli providing a surprisingly warm and satisfying kick at the end.
My first visit to Tuk Cho left me impressed. Service was efficient but not rushed or intrusive. The menu was large and varied, and I ate things I had never had before.
Two hearty main courses for less than £20 represents good value in my book, so I daresay I will be coming back.
