A VETERAN of the west London restaurant scene, having run the highly successful Paper Tiger, Deals and Tai Pan, Eddy Lim's latest offering, Naga, may just be his best yet.

Likeable Lim, a Singapore native who moved to London to realise his dreams 40 years ago, opened Naga after he spotted a big gap in the Kensington market - namely the lack of places that, in his words, 'stand out'.

Naga, in Abingdon Road, manages to do so with its achingly romantic dining room and superb Pan Asian menu, as well as imaginative cocktails by mixologist Tri Van Dang.

Despite nearing 70, Lim is still rolling with the times, and his forward-thinking ethos is represented through the restaurant's contemporary design and thoroughly modern Chinese food.

Covered by a glass roof, the dining room is dimly lit and tastefully decorated with mirrors and red silk screens embossed with Chinese scripts, and features intimate corner booths which, unsurpsingly, are snapped up by the loved-up.

We took a seat at the bar, where Lim was overseeing operations while nursing a glass of Chardonnay, and he wasted no time in recommending us the Naga Fire Bowl, a cocktail which lived up to its name, the potent mix of Don Alvero Tequila, Agave Syrup, Lime Juice, Fresh Chilli and Ginger, ensuring a fragrant evening livener.

The menu is compact but, struggling to choose, we decided to let the charming proprietor make the decisions for us, which he did with relish, and what came back was simply exquisite.

'Better than Nobu's' was how he described the black cod, and, while I can't compare having never been there, it was hard to argue with his confidence. The fish was thick, fresh and silky-smooth and came beautifully flavoured in a sticky, but not too sweet, glaze. It was absolutely divine.

Mongolian lamb cutlets were flavoured delicately and were deliciously tender, while the duck and watermelon salad provided a riot of texture and taste which combined well for a refreshing side.

A spinach and goji berry broth was brimming with health and made me feel better for having also tucked into a steaming plate of Singapore noodles - not actually anything to do with Singapore, according to Lin - generously endowed with fat, juicy prawns.

There was no way I could manage desert but another cocktail, this time The Chinese Tea Cup, complete with pot and cups, was a cooling after dinner alternative, calming the senses with its soothing mix of vodka, pear, elderflower cordial, lemon juice and pink champagne.

Despite opening only last month, Naga has already scooped the Best Chinese Restaurant at the Asian Curry Awards. A gem of an addition to the west London dining scene, it should only get better. With the engaging Lim at the helm, that seems a certainty.