People who know I do reviews often ask me what is my favourite restaurant and from what country my favourite food or dish comes from. It's a tough question and I usually pass on the first one because there are lots of establishments I have enjoyed or admired but in answer to the latter I usually say that classic French cuisine is right up there at the top of my list.
So with this very much in mind I was looking forward to my visit to Garnier, situated on the busy Earl's Court Road, a few strides from the Tube Station. Garnier is owned by restaurateur Didier Garnier, a man who is passionate about local restaurants. He has also been serving the good folk of Chelsea for the past 14 years with sister neighbourhood eatery Le Colombier – where I had enjoyed some fine classic fare on a warm summer's evening back in June – and I was keen to see how Garnier stood up against it.
Everything about Garnier is very French from the menu bristling with quintessentially classic dishes to it its professional staff. The décor is typical of the traditional brasserie style you find across Paris, with a comfortable red banquette running down one side of the restaurant and well spaced tables, which might not be so typical of some Paris eateries, on the opposite side. Large gilt edged mirrors with ornate lights and some interesting pieces of abstract art adorn the walls with the colour scheme a warm red and cream.
The staff were bright, cheery and effecient as they went about their business in the background and things started well with some delicious fresh crunchy French bread and excellent butter. I kicked off with a cracking starter of perfectly cooked and seasoned grilled squad (£8.90) with slow cooked garlic and pickled onions, bolstered by a spinach purée and excellent black olive tapanade which added real balance and texture to the dish.
Fiona gave top marks to her lovingly cooked roasted scallops (£12) which were soft and melted in the mouth and the addition of salsify and a squid ink aioli – the chef was having one of his dark moments joked the waiter – made for a winning combination of flavours.
I was tempted by a special of roast partridge, served off the bone, stuffed legs, gratin dauphinois, black cabbage and a juniper sauce (£21). The meat was soft, moist and delivered on flavour, as did a healthy wedge of classically cooked potatoes. The earthy stuffing in the legs sat perfectly with the meat and well cooked cabbage and a very decent jus made sure all the elements came together nicely on the plate.
Duck is a firm favourite of Fiona's so it was no surprise that she tucked into a classic confit de canard which more than delivered on taste. The meat was moist and rich, the skin crispy, and it came served on a bed of well seasoned braised lentils with bags of flavour along with some kale and cabbage and a dressed side salad– nothing fancy but a simple classic French dish well executed.
For desert Fiona enjoyed her crepes suzette, topped with crystallised orange and further enhanced by a splash of grand marnier. I went for the sorbet mandarine Napoleon which was tasty and refreshing and lifted by a good glug of the brandy and orange based liqueur which dates back to the 1800s. However, three scoops really proved one too many and I was a bit mandarined out towards the end, although the brandy element of the liqueur left a nice warming after taste on the palette.
It was a pleasant end to a thoroughly enjoyable evening of good French cuisine and wine and it was encouraging to see that Garnier appears to be popular in the local neighbourhood as the atmosphere was buzzing like a typical Parisian brasserie as it filled up on a Wednesday evening.
Stepping out in to the chill night air and hustle and bustle of Earl's Court was a far cry from the balmy summer evening we enjoyed when we had visited Le Columbier, but Garnier was every bit as good as its counterpart and delivered a similar classic French eating experience.
