TIME was when I believed I was gastrofying my local public house by smuggling in the Friday night doner kebab.
But London has changed and bona fide 'gastros' now festoon localities like baubles on a tree, while the beer and burger boozers of my youth are looking increasingly ragged.
I too have undergone a great transformation, from chippy oik with a penchant for curry sauce to a respectable man-about-town who can sit among the glamorous and well heeled gastro pub lovers, and dine (relatively) without disgrace.
And what better place to host my new table-mannered self than The Mitre, resplendent after an extensive refurbishment and seemingly doing good trade despite opening at the tail end of a recession.
Located proudly on Holland Park Avenue and tucked away from the hurly-burly of Notting Hill, The Mitre is bright, lavish and welcoming. It has a large semi-circular bar for a pre-meal pint and an open kitchen bustling in the background.
Cavernous for a pub, with long tables and large booths, the Mitre can cater for 75 at a time, including along the intimate upper level.
Service is swift, friendly and unfussy, important for an after-work meal and contributing to the upbeat atmosphere.
The dinner menu (available 6-11pm) is extensive and, while not disgustingly expensive for the Holland Park area, a three-course meal with wine is certainly not cheap. Just as well customers appear drawn from the local blazer, chinos and loafers tribe.
Starters are set about £6 upwards. I opted for the fish board for two, a flavoursome, light array of smoked fish and pates with breads (£15). But the Mitre duck board, turmeric spiced scallops and ham hock and roast vegetable terrine also caught the eye.
There's a strong seafood thread throughout the menu, with lobster (£46 for a half) and a seafood platter for two - mussels, squid, oysters, scallops and grilled prawns - (£30).
But it's hardly exclusive and The Mitre offers a range of hearty-sounding dishes; roast partridge (£16), stuffed winter squash (£11), roast duck breast, oxtail and pie of the day (all £12).
I took the Angus rib-eye steak, cooked medium rare, trimmed with a good slab of fat and slathered in a stilton and shallot butter (£17). Rich, fattening and spot on, although I should have gone for a side of mash over the slightly dry hand-cut chips. Dessert of large plum crumble was a terrific ending to a solid meal.
The Mitre re-opened just before Christmas and is by all accounts bedding down well into the local food scene. Long may it flourish.
THE MITRE 40 Holland Park Avenue, W11 3QY 020 7727 6332 or info@themitrew11.co.uk
